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You have no idea what a relief it was to have all the boat work done and being able to live a normal life again. Although I don’t think we were quite ready to leave
Of course just about 20 minutes before we headed out of the slip the wind started to blow with strong gusts and knowing Paradise does not back up well, especially not out of a slip we were a bit worried, rightfully so. The channel between the opposite slips is very narrow and we watched numerous boats get in trouble trying to get out of the slips even hitting other boats because of cross winds. As soon as the lines were off the cleats the wind pinning us against the dock and of course as soon as we were out of the slip the strong gusts didn’t allow Sid to spin the boat slowly around instead it pushed us on the beam towards the shallow water at the end of the docks. No matter what Sid did the boat would not turn around and you can’t goose the throttle otherwise you’ll end up hitting boats. It was a hopeless situation. Luckily one of our neighbors had the dinghy ready in the water and just in time before we reached the shallow end pushed our bow around and we were out of the channel, ufff were we lucky. Not even in case of heavy wind, like or situation, customs will not let you stay one minute longer, you have to leave.
Out in the big open anchorage we had to calibrate the new autopilot first, that took a few rounds, we were hoping that it worked as there was no return to get it fixed unless we would check in again and pay quite a bit of money to do so. Luckily it worked. The wind was gusting up to 28 knots, not what we needed especially to get out of the Boca, the channels between
As we finally arrived on the other side of the Boca of course we hoped the water would calm down, no such thing, it was a lumpy bumpy ride and this throughout the night at least not the wild ride we had through the Boca. We averaged a speed of 6.5 knots as a current was in our favor and pushed us with two knots all the way to Los Testigos. Towards the morning the weather calmed and we had to motor the last couple of hours.
Los Testigos are a delightful group of islands with about 160 inhabitants who live by fishing. The islands are fairly small but offer gorgeous beaches with sand dunes, lots of fish, interesting snorkeling and adventurous hiking. The Testigos make a convenient first landfall from either
Los Testigos in our mind is a must stop, what a beautiful island group. If we had known how beautiful they are we would have stopped on our way to
The tropical wave that hit us brought us a lot of wind and rain and strong wind followed for several days. The wind was howling through the rigging and the anchorage was rather on the rolly side, but the scenery made up for that. We stayed four days and caught the best day to head for Isla Margarita before the next wave hit. We had a. It’s been a long time since we had a great sail. We had a constant current of one knot with us, of course always welcome but rare. We sailed and surfed an average 6.5 knots with the highest surf speed of 8.7 knots over ground 7.6 through the water. The last two hours before Margarita the wind got calmer and the sails were draining and so Sid made his configuration of sails with staysail (port), Jib (starboard) wing on wing and mainsail (starboard). The mainsail was feeding the wind to the staysail and that one sending the wind to the jib. Not just did it look good we sailed with 6.2 knots through the water dead down wind and were more stable with the 6 foot rollers. We sailed the whole 48 miles with NO motor running, which is something we don’t get to do too often. Once more we are anchored in Isla Margarita waiting for yet the next wave to pass and of course to do some shopping, after all we were out of good Venezuelan Rum.
Wow, shocker! Has Margarita gotten expensive, it’s not the shopper’s heaven anymore it used to be. Some of the food was as expensive as in the States if not more and liquor has definitely gone up BIG time. The Carta Roja rum we used to buy for 6 BS, 7 max was now 13 BS. My favorite champagne went from BS 14 to 21. Of course it didn’t help either that the BS now was at 3 to 1 dollar, when we left it was still at 5.
Checking in is easy now in Margarita as they opened an office two minutes away from the dock that houses customs, immigration and port captain. It’s great to know that we don’t have to use Juan anymore he has been ripping cruisers off for too many years, still is.
Not too many boats were in the anchorage about 1/3 what we usually see but then it was still early in the season, most show up the following month in July as the tropical waves will have intensified. The anchorage showed her true face again as it was rock n roll city and should be named Rolamar not Porlamar.
At the last Hash in Trinidad Sid sprained his ankle pretty bad, it was good until Los Testigos as we went swimming around the boat cleaned some sea grass off the hull and the following morning Sid couldn’t stand on his foot. It was swollen again and he was in agony for a couple of days and so we staid for the tropical wave. The wave brought heavy wind (25 knots) out of the SE and brought rollers of 4 feet straight into the anchorage. Just glad we have the flopper-stoppers, although one broke and needs to be fixed. Still with just the one up we sat more comfortable in the water then the rest of the boats who were rolling from ear to ear. They all looked like little rubber toys being tossed around in a huge bath tub, it was not a pretty sight and I felt sorry for them even though we didn’t have the most peaceful sleep either. At this time of the year one wave after another is heading from the African coast to the
Sid’s foot still wasn’t good and so he rested for four more days before we lifted anchor. The sail was just perfect when we left I came up with another one of those silly “Cruising is:” poems:
Cruising is..........
.............Sitting in the captain's seat
Enjoying the tropical summer heat
In one hand holding an ice cold beer
The other on the wheel to steer
Captain Sid leans over kissing his wife
Saying "isn't this a good life"
06/30/08 Manuela Olshefski (Golfo de Cariaco)
We left Coche at 3 AM, the wind was blowing a steady 12 knots and a 1 foot swell with a one knot current pushed us towards the Araya Peninsula, of course with the motor running (to make water and pump up the batteries) and the jib out. The reason we leave this early is to be able to reach Laguna Grande before
The nets came out again and we had it peaceful again. This time it was so quite you could hear ants walk around. Yes, aunts as we accumulated quite a few of these nasty little pests. We’re not the only ones having them; it seems every boat we’ve gone aboard over the last year has them. They definitely got on board
Sid was cleaning the deck and moved the bumpers out of the way when he realized something was wrong with them then he saw the nests. Two nests, one in each bumper and sprayed them of course with ant killer. It seems that keeping after them the ghost ants disappeared as well only an occasional one wonders lonely around. It finally seems after one year of battle we are winning. Lets hope we are.
Two other boats where here already, one from Nice and the other from Spain “Heritage” with Jordi and Christina we met in Porlamar and again in Coche. In Coche we had them over for dinner and Jordi threatened us with an invitation for Paella on Heritage. While here in Laguna Grande they met the local fishermen and they took them fishing inside the bay by laying a big net. What they brought out of the water was more than just fish, so we had the most wonderful paella with shrimp. For dessert Jordi made us one of the best Margaritas we have ever had. Unfortunately they had to leave the following day and two days later we were the only boat in the anchorage. Knowing that there is shrimp in the bay we of course took our net out and went shrimping. Many hours and sore arms and shoulders later we hauled 5 big shrimp home and believe it or not but it was enough to make a wonderful lunch to fill our tummies.
The same day we had a little green visitor on board. No worries, the Martians haven’t landed yet! It was a baby iguana that must have swam out here climbing the anchor; he was a pretty tough guy as he didn’t even mind us getting close to him. Not even the camera lens that inched towards him got him distressed; instead he just smiled into the camera. He walked around not minding us at all and eventually after about one hour did a swan dive into the water and swam back to the close mangroves.
Fredi the son of a local fisherman comes by every time we anchor here asking for a dive mask and food. I couldn’t give him a mask but we did have some food and coffee for him to take home. Maybe next time we come back to Laguna Grande we can bring a care package.
We enjoyed the calm and quite here, we did have another wave come over us bringing us just little wind and rain and the nights were just filled with twinkling stars, phosphorescence in the water and dancing fireflies ashore. After 6 days in this bliss we reluctantly lifted anchor and headed for
The dolphins didn’t miss joining us an hour or so playing with the bow and letting the wake push them along side the boat.
We were amazed to just find 8 boats anchored in front of Medregal but the yard that only three months ago had 8 boats in storage had now 30 boats hauled out and one was just being brought out. Wow, great to see that Jean Marc is getting busy. Later we found out that he actually ran out of stands to support the boats and is in the process of having more made. Another wave came over us and spectacular rain shower started on the mainland and slowly inching its way towards us. It rained long and hard and the air cooled down to almost where we wanted to put on a jacket. After the rain it was so crystal clear you could see every crevasse on every hill. The sunset was breathtaking; the left over clouds turned a golden red which was reflected in the water. It doesn’t get any better than this.
What is it do we look like a honey comb???!!! We had a storm cloud building up on the other side of the bay and the boats started to turn into the wind of this thunderstorm. We enjoyed the cool breeze while reading our books. Once in a while I would glance over the side to see what the storm cloud was up to and with horror I noticed hundreds of bees buzzing right next to the boat. That made me jump: "Siiiiiid we have a huge problem!" sure enough behind our boat were many more bees, all trying to land on the fast spinning wind generator. "Sh…..t, *&^%$...., oh nooooo…..!!!!" We both grabbed a can of insect spray and started spraying. The wind was blowing too much and the spray only reached the bees on our level. The wind generator is about 9 feet higher then the cockpit and the spray was ineffective. The wind generator had chopped up about 500 and sprayed them all over the solar panels (we were thinking about Beesburgers for dinner). What now? Sid ran to the foredeck and got the hose and hooked it up to the saltwater outlet in the cockpit and started to spray the invaders with salt water. You should have seen the trail of swimming bees behind us. But the spray still didn't reach all the way up to them due to the wind. I guess at this point we had half of them in the water. There was only one thing to do abandon the anchorage and head out as fast as
his wind generator which had quite a few bees stuck to it, so back towards our original spot and they came back. Out to sea again and they left, so we finally anchored outside of all the other boats and maybe had another 10 bees which luckily flew right into the insect spray.
We got back just on time to take a shower and get ready for our guests Kylie and Mike on Meggie. We settled down with a beer and told them our other bee adventures we had in Puerto La Cruz. WHY US??!!! Sid said that if we have one more invasion he is going to paint the boat blue!
There are numerous Swedish boats in the anchorage and they are talking on the VHF hailing channel all day long, I mean all the time. The rule is when you call someone you switch channels so that the others don't have to listen. Well, they don't, which wouldn't be so bad if they would speak English so that we at least could lurk into the conversation. So we get annoyed and turn off the radio. Don't really like to do that, especially at night as it is a bit of security for boaters could alert each other of any dangers. So the radio was off and just before
He caught one of the guys on the beach and roughed him up a little, which he was very proud of then he called the police. He said that three of the guys were arrested after being caught by the villagers and the fourth one later. They were from
During summer time right around end of July the Golfo can develop westerly winds which usually occurred around
In the mean time the first Atlantic hurricane of the year "Bertha" has formed and is luckily in an area where she should miss the
We got tired of the westerly winds so we pulled anchor and sailed the 8 miles into the Laguna de Cariaco. We were the only boat in the Lagoon, the water was as flat as a mirror and the only thing we could here were pelicans splashing into water catching fish and occasionally jumping leaping mullets. As the sun lowered towards the horizon hundreds of parrots filled the air with their loud squawking and settled in the near by mangroves. Then the scarlet ibis returned. We sat on deck with camera and binocular and of course a cocktail and watched how these incredible birds lit up the sky in fiery red. They settled and after a few minutes it was quite except for the pelicans and fish. What a peaceful place. I prepared us a wonderful dinner (rack of lamb, lemon herbed rice and salad), played some cards and ended the day with watching the stars.
After a peaceful good night sleep Sid scrubbed the mud off the chain and anchor as we lifted it and headed along the Golfo towards El Oculto. It was a very delightful day and flew the spinnaker until we passed
Just as we reached the entrance to the Golfo the wind shut down and down came the shoot and the iron jib carried us the rest of the way to El Oculto and arrived just on time to cover up for a rain shower and a sundowner. Ah, life is good.
Life got even better as we had El Oculto all to ourselves. The weather was perfect, not too hot during the day, humidity was down, the sunsets spectacular and the evening filled with a cool breeze so cool we needed a blanket to keep us warm in bed. The snorkeling again was incredible. A rare treat was to see a sea snake, many moray eels, baby trigger fish and a couple of octopus.
After three days in this bliss bad weather was predicted as another tropical wave was underway and so we decided it was time to head back to Marina Maremares where we are well protected from eventual storms. Just as we left the anchorage the already dark sky started opening up and a very heavy gust of wind let us know that the waves was already upon us. Luckily we had the main already double reefed but decided it was safer to lower the main and just sail with the jib, which we did. We didn’t get any other strong gusts but learned later that
Carlos the guide that took us to the islands on the tour boat we rented whenever we have visitors came by and brought us the freshest mangoes from his garden and a present. Last time we did a tour with him I found a stone that looked like a sailboat. He mounted the stone onto a piece of wood surrounded it with shells and also brought us a doily his mother had made, what a super nice guy. He also brought us a bottle of rum and coke, he was pretty sure we must be out and we were, nice guy.
Since the weekend was approaching and we definitely didn’t want to be in this anchorage for that so we pulled anchor and headed towards Maremares planning to anchor out until our slip was open. There was no need to anchor out as Jean had a slip for us right between the two nicest, biggest and most expensive mega yachts in the marina, remember my Christmas present a tour on Rompemar a 6 million dollar mega yacht?